Saint Césaire - Chardonnay

Saint Césaire

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Chardonnay is a noble grape variety originating from Burgundy. It has become popular worldwide as a result of its broad adaptability and appeal to the tastes of a wide range of consumers. Chardonnay also adjusts well to diverse soil and climate conditions.

Burgundy enjoys the reputation of producing the best Chardonnays (the wines originating from Côtes de Beaune area were originally known as the “Wine of Kings”). This is as a result of its extremely valuable terroir characterised by a clay and limestone soil on a gentle slope; allowing the rain water to reach the roots of the vines without stagnating.

But why choose to produce Chardonnay on the island of Saint Honorat? Firstly, Saint Honorat is endowed with a clay and limestone soil, similar to that found in Burgundy and in the Champagne region, whilst also benefiting from an island climate which results in a constant humidity level throughout the year. Furthermore, although the Mediterranean climate is very different from the continental climate which can be found in Burgundy, the island’s rainfall is stored by the clay soil, and ensures an adequate supply of water to the vine’s root systems all year round.

Secondly, Saint Honorat can be distinguished geologically from the neighbouring island of Saint Marguerite due to the vertical veins which characterize the underlying rock and which facilitate the way in which the vines draw water.

As a result the Chardonnay produced on Lérins does not suffer the same diluted and rather heavy characteristics of many of the Chardonnays cultivated in Provence.

 

 

But above and beyond the unusual characteristics of Saint Honorat’s terroir, the exceptional qualities of the Saint Césaire wine are a result of the special ageing techniques that are used in its production. The small growing area allows workers to take particular care over pruning, removal of unwanted buds and natural selection, to watch over the health of the vines and maximise the yield and quality of the production. The dates for an ideal grape harvest are also carefully selected each year. It is a general misconception that young vineyards do not allow the production of top quality wine, and that the best wines are produced from old vines. It is, however, not a question of age but rather of care; with expert care excellent vintages can be produced from young vines.

As a result, Saint Césaire is characterised by its complexity, depth, oily texture and long finish. As Anne Vételé, (elected best sommelier of 2009) noted “it seems to be at the same time warm and chilled”, for in spite of a high alcoholic content (due to the amount of sunshine absorbed by the grapes) the wine does not seem alcoholic. Saint Cézaire can be drunk as a young wine, or laid down for up to 7 or 8 years (ideally at 12° with 80% humidity).

Saint Césaire is thus a vintage capable of rivalling well known Chardonnays, including those of Burgundy. The 2003 vintage gained national and international acclaim after obtaining, with 15/20, fourth place in the classification of the 100 best wines by Culture & Goût (the amateur association of wines and wine growers which promotes quality wines). This places Saint Césaire before Chevalier-Montrachet (Grand Cru vintage wine) “Demoiselles” from Louis Jadot, Meursault Premier Cru Blanc Goutte d’Or 2003 from Bouchard Père et Fils and Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2003 from Domaine William Fèvre.

At a blind tasting with professionals and amateur wine experts at the Bastide St Antoine, Saint Césaire came out as the winner, in front of famous vintages such as Meursault Clos des Ambres from Arnaud Ente, a Premier Cru St Gobain Henri Milley from Didier Larue, and a Chassagne Montrachet la Romanée from Morey Coffinet, particularly renowned in Burgundy.

Saint Césaire is served in many gastronomic restaurants all over the French Riviera including the Bastide St Antoine, (2 Michelin stars) the Belles Rives in Juan les Pins (5 star hotel), L’Eden Roc in Cap d’Antibes (also 5 stars and considered by many as the most luxurious hotel on the French Riviera), Le Château du Domaine St Martin in Vence (5 star hotel), Le Petit Nice of Gérald Passédat in Marseille (3 Michelin stars and rated 18/20 by the Gault Millau guide).

 

Vintage years:

2006: quantity available 1,900 bottles
2007: quantity available 2,300 bottles
2008: quantity available 5,000 75cl bottles and 150 Magnums.

Winemaker’s notes: Varietal: 100% Chardonnay. After pressing, juices are separated. The cold must is decanted into thermostatically controlled stainless steel tanks. Fermentation begins at a low temperature (16-17°C) and continues in barrels. The wine is then aged for 9 to 11 months in new barrels made from in French oak, with ‘batonage’ (stirring with a stick) of the fine sediment.

Drink responsibly: excessive alcohol consumption is bad for your health